Geraldine o brien



(Speelmens.)

G. oBRIBN, GOMBINATIO'NKNITTED UNDBRGARMENT. No.`491,9750. Patented Feb.14, 1.893.v

UNrrn STATES GERALDINE OBRIEN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TOJOHN HOLMES, OF SAME PLACE.

COMBINATION YKNITTED UNDERGARMENT.

SIECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent Application filed August 8,1892.

T0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, GERALDINE OBRIEN, of Boston, county of Suifolk,State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in CombinationKnitted Undergarments, of which the following description, in connectionwith the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on thedrawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object to improve the shape and fit ofcombination garments especially about the shoulders.

In this invention, the inner or large end of the sleeve is provided withselvage edges which are secured to selvageedges at the front and back ofthe garment, the selvage edges coming at the sides of the arm scye. Thefront and the back of the garment are so shaped and are of such relativelength that the shoulder seams fall on the back of the shoulders ratherthan on the top of the shoulders as heretofore, such constructioninsuring a much smoothert of the garment to the shoulder and breast. Thegarment has a seam from under the arm scye to a point below the hips,and the fabric where it covers the hip is widened and complementarilynarrowed to afford fullness at the hips, and I also widen the fabricfrom the waist portion to the under side of the arm scye.

Figure 1, of the drawings in front elevation shows a combination garmentembodying my invention, one of the sleeves and part of the shoulderbeing bent over to the front to show the location of the shoulder seam.Fig. 2, shows the sleeve before it is closed together; and Fig. 3, showsa portion of the upper part of the back.

The garment herein shown as to its general shape resembles the garmentshown in United States Patent No. 454,812, heretofore granted to me, andthe front and back flaps are substantially the same as described in thesaid patent, so need not be herein further referred to. The sleeve Aisknitted as ailat web from its shoulder end, it being commenced, let itbe so supposed, at a, on the desired number of needles, and the web isthen widened to form selvage edges a', a', and then preferably furtherwidened to leave wings a5, a3, and thereafter the sleeve 1s graduallynarrowed N0. 491,950, dated February 14, 1893.

Serial No. 442,419. (Specimens.)

leaving selvage edges a5, a6, the sleeve being terminated by a suitablecuff, the edges a5, a6 of the sleeve being united to form the propertube. The edge a, where the work is set up on the needles, as stated,presents, when run off,'a finished edge which is uniformly straight andwill not unravel. Each half of the garment commenced preferably at thebottom of the leg is knitted as a flat web and gradually widened untilat about the point h, or where it is desired to begin to furnishadditional fullness for the outer hips. At this point, I throw thestitches off from about one-half the needles at one side the series ofneedles, and then from the point lb widen for a few needles, and inallynarrow the fabric to about the point b', using for such purpose agreater or less number of the needles from which the loops were thrownoff, as stated, this widening and narrowing operation resulting in theproduction of ,a double-pointed gore b2. After having completed thegore, referred to, the knitting is continued, let it be for one-half ofthe front of the garment, and the waist w is knitted, and from above theWaist to the arm scye I preferably again widen the fabric more or lessaccording to the bust measure desired, as `from 2'to 3, stopping thewidening, however, at the arm scye and commencing to narrow along oneedge, as at 10 Fig. 1, until the fabric along the front has been broughtto the desired width to be carried over the shoulder, and the knittingis continued producing a 'fabric of the width required for the shoulderuntil what is to be the upper end of the front laps over behind theshoulder and onto the back, after which the loops are run off. Nowone-half of the back must be knitted, and to do this, the loops whichwere run off, as stated, at b preparatory to knitting the front, areagain picked onto the needles from which they were` removed .when thefront was commenced, and knitting is resumed on those needles for theback, and widening and narrowing is effected for the fullness of thehip, andk the waist is knitted and widened above it to the arm scye asdescribed in knitting the front. From the bottom ofthe arm scye for afew courses, say about ten, the back is narrowed and the fabric is thenknitted of substantially the same width until it is of suffi- IOO cientlength to meet the overlapping front of the fabric at the arm scye seam,and thereafter the fabric is gradually narrowed to give the slopedesired from the shoulder to the neck, and the loops are then run oft,leaving a raw edge for the back of the neck, which is subsequentlyfinished in usual manner. The extended part of the front to overlap theshoulder has been marked d', and that portion is joined to the selvageedge c of the back, as fully represented at the left in Figs. l and 3.In this way, the shoulder seam from the arm scye to the neck is laidupon the back of the shoulder as represented, thus obviating the usualtop shoulder seam and leaving' the fabric free to stretch and fit thetop and front of the shoulder snugly.

The location of the shoulder seam is best shown at the left in Fig. l,it fallingat a point back of the shoulder. The portion a, of the sleeveis sewed to the side edge of the front from the point 6, see Fig. 2, oneedge d of the sleeve being also joined to the side of the front, one ofthe shoulders as a3, being also joined to the front. The other selvageedged portion a of the sleeve and the portion a3 next to it is joined tothe back of the fabric.

In my garment none of the edges are cut edges, and all the inclinededges are produced by narrowing and widening processes, hence the seamsare all smooth seams when completed by sewing.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new anddesire to secureby Letters Patent, isz- 1. A knitted combination garment, having itsfront longer than its back and carried over the shoulderand united to aninclined selvagc edged part of the back at the back of the shoulder,substantially as described.

2. A knitted combination garment having its front and back provided eachwith a se1- vage edge, at the side of the arm scye combined with asleeve having narrowed or inclined selvage edges d', a', secured to thefront and back, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

GERALDINE OBRIEN. lVitnesses:

Gno. W. GREGORY, AUGUSTA E. DEAN.

